Baden-Baden and the Black Forest
Explorations in Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden and the Black Forest National Park
For three incredible days, I embarked on a captivating journey through Germany's picturesque Black Forest region. Nestled in the southwestern part of Germany, it is renowned for its natural beauty and lush landscapes. The Black Forest stretches across an area characterized by rolling hills, dense forests, and charming villages. Its extensive forested areas, adorned with thick foliage and overlapping branches, create an enchanting ambiance, casting shadows that add to its mysterious allure, especially when viewed from a distance. This distinctive appearance led to its name, the "Black Forest." A haven for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region offers a plethora of hiking and biking trails, cascading waterfalls, serene lakes, and breathtaking panoramic viewpoints. It is a place where one can fully immerse themselves in the tranquility of nature, breathe in the fresh forest air, and indulge in the timeless appeal of this remarkable corner of the world.
My journey began in the city of Karlsruhe, boasting a unique blend of historical significance and modern vibrancy. As I settled into my stay at the Schlosshotel Karlsruhe, I was greeted by the warm hospitality of the hosts, who made my experience truly enjoyable. The hotel itself exuded a quaint atmosphere and what truly fascinated me was the presence of a functioning elevator from the year 1914. Just imagine stepping into a time capsule and being transported by an elevator that has withstood the test of time since the era of World War One.
Karlsruhe, celebrated as a UNESCO Media Art City, showcases its artistic prowess through the renowned ZKM Exhibit, which I had the opportunity to explore. While modern art isn't usually my preference, I found the collection intriguing and the creative space provided by the ZKM truly inspiring. Witnessing artists and innovators freely explore, experiment, and transform their imaginative ideas into extraordinary works of art was a great experience. Afterward, I ventured to the Karlsruhe Palace, basking in the radiant sunlight that illuminated its majestic gardens. The palace's origin story adds to its aura, as it is believed that 300 years ago, Charles III William envisioned a star-shaped city that laid the foundation for this magnificent place. The vibrant atmosphere was filled with people of all ages and backgrounds, savoring the pleasures of a beautiful spring day. Amidst the lush greenery, I spotted a person immersed in the tranquil ambiance, enjoying a book in the shade of the trees.
As evening fell on Karlsruhe, I ventured to the neighboring district of Durlach, once a separate town and the previous residence of the ruler. As I made our way there, the scenery transformed, with old trams gracefully gliding along the wires, and buildings showcasing the marks of time. Wandering through its charming alleys, I couldn't help but feel a sense of attachment to this quaint town. While the grandeur of the palace was captivating, there was an undeniable charm in the quiet streets and cozy corners of Durlach. The architecture of the old town itself was exquisite, with some buildings adorned with vines, cobblestone lanes winding through the town, and bicycles leaning against vintage facades. I even spotted a contented fat cat perched on the roof of a car, adding to the idyllic atmosphere of this sleepy European suburb.
Continuing our journey uphill, I reached Turmberg, an ancient castle tower. From here, I could see the entirety of the old town and beyond. At this vantage point, a crowd had gathered to witness the sunset over the picturesque vista. Some engaged in conversation, enjoying their drinks and hookah, while others immortalized the breathtaking view by taking photographs. It was a fitting finale, providing a moment of tranquility and reflection as my day in Karlsruhe came to an end.
The next day, after a satisfying breakfast at the hotel, I embarked on a short drive to the charming town of Baden-Baden. As I entered the town, I was immediately captivated by its stunning architecture. It had to be a place of rich reputation and history. I found a parking spot in a convenient garage and took a leisurely stroll, immersing myself in the town's opulent and refined ambiance. Before checking in, I indulged in a lunch of Käsespätzle, a traditional German pasta dish topped with frizzled onions. My accommodation, the beautiful Hotel am Sophienpark, situated in the heart of the town, was impressive with its elegant interior. However, it was the tranquil courtyard, offering an oasis away from the bustling streets, that truly won my heart.
Next on my itinerary was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip - a walking tour guided by Katharina, a guide from the Baden-Baden tourism board. Right from the start, she shared an astonishing fact that left me in awe: the very hotel I was staying at had once hosted Karl Marx during his honeymoon. As we embarked on our walk, we ascended a boulevard embraced by majestic trees. To my astonishment, Katharina revealed that this very spot had been the location of the city walls and moat in ancient times. The realization that many of these old towns had once been fortified with imposing city walls, which have now vanished, fascinated me to no end.
Baden-Baden possesses a fascinating Roman history that traces back to ancient times. Established as a settlement by the Romans, it was named ‘Citavis Aurelia Aquensis’ (the city of Aurelia of the waters) in honor of Aurelius Severus and Baden-Baden’s hot springs. The Romans quickly recognized the therapeutic properties of the mineral-rich waters, leading to the construction of luxurious bathhouses and villas throughout the area. This attracted Roman soldiers, nobility, and dignitaries who sought relaxation and rejuvenation. The remnants of Roman architecture, including fragments of their baths, serve as enduring testaments to their legacy. The Roman history of Baden-Baden laid the foundation for its reputation as a spa town and contributed to its development as a renowned destination for well-being and indulgence. What sets Baden-Baden apart is its origin as a town centered around relaxation rather than one driven by strategic importance or trade, setting it apart from the traditional origin stories of many other towns and cities worldwide.
Following the Roman occupation, Baden-Baden underwent a shift in rulership and witnessed a series of historical events. During the medieval period, it fell under the dominion of the Margraviate of Baden. Throughout the centuries, the town faced the ravages of wars, destruction, and subsequent rebuilding. Then, in the 18th and 19th centuries, Baden-Baden underwent a remarkable transformation, emerging as a highly sought-after spa destination. Its thermal springs attracted European nobility and the elite, who sought the therapeutic benefits they offered. As a result, the town experienced a profound revival and underwent significant development. Stately bathhouses, elegant hotels, and opulent villas were constructed to cater to the growing influx of visitors. Baden-Baden earned a renowned reputation and became a hub for culture, music, and gambling. The prosperous 18th and 19th centuries solidified Baden-Baden's position as a distinguished spa town and an internationally acclaimed tourist destination.
As my guide explained, in 1867, Otto Von Bismarck and the North German Confederation, a political entity in Germany, made the decision to ban gambling across the entire country starting in 1872. This decision was reached after several years of public discussions regarding the existence and impact of casinos in Germany. As a result of the upcoming ban on gambling, the city of Baden-Baden, which had gained fame and popularity as a destination partly due to its luxurious casinos, faced the challenge of finding alternatives to maintain its appeal to guests. The presence of casinos had attracted wealthy visitors who enjoyed both the therapeutic benefits of the thermal baths and the excitement of gambling. With the impending prohibition on gambling, Baden-Baden needed to explore other attractions and amenities to continue attracting visitors.
This situation prompted the city to focus on enhancing its spa facilities, expanding cultural offerings, and emphasizing its natural beauty and serene atmosphere. By investing in the improvement of spa infrastructure and diversifying entertainment options, Baden-Baden sought to position itself as an enticing destination even without the presence of casinos. This shift helped the town maintain its reputation as a premier spa retreat, and it remains a popular destination for relaxation, wellness, and cultural experiences to this day. One such spa was the Friedrichsbad, where even Mark Twain visited during his journey to Europe. He famously quoted, 'After 10 minutes, you forget time; after 20 minutes, you forget the world.'
The guide also pointed out several landmarks that held significance for famous Russians throughout history, including the place where Fyodor Dostoevsky stayed during his visits to Baden-Baden. Intrigued by their motivation to travel such a long distance from Russia (which, in those days, took a considerable amount of time), I asked the guide for further insight. She explained that a letter written by a Russian princess played a significant role in influencing Russians to visit Baden-Baden. She eloquently described the healing properties of the waters and the pleasant atmosphere of Baden-Baden. This letter had a profound impact, sparking a growing interest among Russian nobility to visit Baden-Baden for both therapeutic purposes and leisure. It was fascinating to observe this trend throughout my tour, recognizing the influential power of the written word in shaping travel preferences and decisions. These authors were truly the influencers of their day.
As we strolled along, our guide pointed out a water fountain that now had a sign prohibiting drinking water due to trace amounts of arsenic found in it. However, she reminisced about her childhood when there used to be an aluminum cup attached to a chain for drinking from the fountain. She expressed some doubt that the arsenic has caused any harm, and I found myself agreeing with her, believing that such water may even have beneficial properties that contribute to the city's renowned healing reputation. It was fascinating to witness how my guide, being a local, had witnessed the changes in her city over time. As we passed beneath the impressive "New Castle", I was intrigued to learn that Queen Victoria had even visited this city where she discreetly traveled incognito to go shopping. As we talked about this, just a few meters beneath our feet was where the Roman buildings would have been, a testament to the rich history that permeates the city.
As we continued our walk, the guide delved into the history of the town, specifically highlighting the devastating impact of wars with the French that resulted in the widespread destruction of the town. Despite the ruins, she pointed out remnants of the medieval blueprints that occasionally surfaced, such as in the courtyard of an exceptionally beautiful wine bar. Following these destructive events, the town languished in obscurity for nearly a century until it experienced a remarkable revival, earning the title of the "Summer Capital" of Europe. This newfound status prompted the city to showcase its opulence, and an array of exquisite shops emerged along its main shopping street.
We leisurely strolled along the impressive Trinkhalle, also known as Baden-Baden's Pump Room, marveling at its grandeur adorned with Corinthian pillars and captivating murals. The triangular gable at the entrance depicted the transformation of the ailing and infirm, who entered weak and departed rejuvenated, as the nymph's healing powers worked their magic. The splendid murals graced the walls, narrating local legends and folklore, including the remarkable tale of the hot springs halting the spread of the plague.
Another fascinating aspect of this city was the presence of exotic trees and a deep interest in botany, which contributed to shaping its unique landscape. The city's revival during the romantic and enlightenment period was characterized by a profound fascination with the outdoors, nature, and the captivating ruins that surrounded Baden-Baden. A central figure in this transformation was Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden, who possessed a fervent passion for horticulture and played a pivotal role in the development of the town's parks and gardens. His particular emphasis was on collecting diverse tree species, and there are even tales of him receiving trees as gifts from the King of Thailand. Guided by Friedrich's vision, the parks of Baden-Baden expanded, boasting a rich variety of trees. The grand duke's unwavering commitment to promoting green spaces and enhancing the town's natural beauty left a lasting legacy.
The significance of this historical legacy was particularly prominent at the Lictentaller Alee, a place I was eagerly looking forward to exploring the next day. It was here that our guide, Katharina, dropped us off, providing us with an incredible opportunity to learn about the town's history from someone who grew up here and used to walk this very pathway to reach school. I expressed my astonishment at the profound depth of Baden-Baden's history, and in response, Katharina shared her belief that every place holds its own intriguing stories, waiting to be discovered by those who are willing to delve deeper. However, despite her perspective, I know that Baden-Baden is truly a special place.
After taking a moment to rest, I leisurely wandered through the town, taking in the sights on my own. The light rain had emptied the streets, creating a serene atmosphere. As I observed the rising steam columns from the thermal springs, I couldn't help but imagine what the ancient Romans must have thought when they witnessed a similar spectacle thousands of years ago. Perhaps they saw it as the fires of invading enemies. Continuing my stroll, I ascended the pathways until I reached the terrace in front of the castle, where a magnificent view of Baden-Baden and its lavish architecture awaited me. To my surprise, I learned that the New Castle was now owned by a Kuwaiti family and there were plans to transform it into a luxury hotel. Choosing the quieter, residential back alleyways, I made my way back to my hotel, where I hopped into the car for the final adventure of the day.
My destination was the longest funicular railway in Germany and the steepest one in Europe. In just five minutes, the railway transported me over 1200 feet to the summit of Merkur Mountain. Eager to savor the best view possible, I ascended a tower that offered breathtaking panoramas. Even at this altitude of approximately 700 meters, the air was filled with the peaceful melodies of chirping birds. All around me, I beheld the majestic mountains and valleys adorned with the vibrant greenery reminiscent of a Bob Ross painting. Some areas were veiled in an enigmatic fog, adding an air of mystery. Scattered ruins dotted the landscape, serving as poignant reminders of a bygone era. As night fell, the lights of Baden-Baden twinkled. There was a cool mountain breeze and in that moment, I knew it was the perfect conclusion to an extraordinary day in Baden-Baden.
The next morning, I woke up early and set out to explore the entire length of the Lichtentaler Allee, a breathtaking promenade that follows the graceful course of the Oos River. It was one of the most unforgettable walks I've ever experienced. The journey started amidst Baden-Baden's luxurious buildings, including its renowned upscale hotels.
As I strolled along, the sounds of the river flowing against the rocks reminded me of a water fountain. Little ducks frolicked in the water, and the soft cooing of birds punctuated the peaceful morning stillness, reminiscent of the mourning doves back home in New Jersey. The pathway was adorned with a rich variety of trees and flowers, many of which were protected species, as my guide told me yesterday. The landscape came alive with an array of vibrant blooms and occasional bursts of color, courtesy of bright flowers and majestic maples, harmoniously intertwined amidst the lush greenery. I was particularly captivated by a tree that elegantly dipped its branches into the water.
The scent of flowers occasionally wafted through the pleasant morning air, as the temperature remained perfect with low-hanging clouds adding a touch of mystique to the scene. Along the way, I discovered inviting benches where one could sit and take in the breathtaking views or engage in conversations with friends. Quaint lamp posts and picturesque bridges added a touch of old-world charm, appearing every few hundred feet along the pathway. It was endearing to witness people leisurely walking alongside their well-behaved dogs, off-leash and also enjoying the atmosphere. I know this walk was designed to emulate the essence of an English garden. I have not been to many English gardens but I can say it felt as though a Monet painting had come to life. I can see why this very promenade has witnessed the beginning of many noble marriages.
The rest of the morning was dedicated to further exploration of the town, indulging in delightful pastries and local coffee. In the afternoon, I had the privilege of being invited to a lunch by the Marketing Manager of Baden-Baden Tourism, which took place at the esteemed Café König. During our meeting, I took the opportunity to inquire about her aspirations for the future of Baden-Baden's tourism industry.
I loved her visionary outlook, emphasizing the significance of organic growth while expressing caution regarding the impact of day-trippers and large tour buses - a concern I had personally witnessed wreaking havoc on towns like Hallstatt in Austria. Sharing my own aspirations, I mentioned my desire to eventually compile my travel experiences into a book, although I confessed my uncertainty about connecting the various stories. In response, she shared a profound insight that really resonated with me. She said that right now, I was just collecting the pearls, assuring me that one day I would string them together to make a beautiful necklace - encouragement that I will always remember.
After lunch, I explored the the Old Castle of Hohenbaden, retracing the footsteps of long-forgotten military leaders and uncovering hidden rooms in the remarkably well-preserved building. Climbing the narrow and steep steps, I reached endless viewing terraces. In that moment, I could almost go back in time, imagining what it would have been like to be stationed here centuries ago, gazing out at the vast world spread before me.
Soon after, I was following a gentle path through the dense woods of the Black Forest, crossing wooden bridges and dodging colorful salamanders to discover the breathtaking Geroldsau Waterfall. The beauty of this natural spectacle has inspired great minds, including the German composer Johannes Brahms and French painter Gustave Courbet, who both hiked here to draw inspiration for their work.
In the midst of capturing photographs of the waterfall, the rain intensified, pouring down harder. I tried to explore other places like Mummelsee, the mystical lake, and hike the Lothar Trail, where you can witness the forest's recovery from a devastating hurricane. However, it became clear that Mother Nature had other plans, and I had to move on.
Reflecting on my time in the Black Forest, I am truly amazed by the abundance of experiences this region had to offer. From the natural wonders to the historical landmarks, it surpassed my expectations at every turn. And among its many treasures, the shining gem of Baden-Baden stood out with its rich history, cultural allure, and captivating beauty. The sights and people I encountered along the way will forever be etched in my memory, reminding me of the remarkable depth and diversity that the Black Forest region holds.
Note: This visit was made in collaboration with the Black Forest Tourism Board. See details about them here. During my visit, I had the opportunity to explore the breathtaking landscapes and cultural treasures of the Black Forest region. I would like to express my sincere appreciation to the Black Forest Tourism Board for their support and assistance in making this trip unforgettable.